Trixie Traveler in Portugal: Exploring the Alfama

A good night of sleep last night (ten hours for me!) helps all of us feel much, much better. We have a leisurely morning sleeping as long as we want and going to breakfast when we are ready. We enjoy a fabulous breakfast at the hotel, everything imaginable with many interesting selections. We head out about 10:00 taking a taxi uphill to the Alfama neighborhood and St. Jorge castle where there are wonderful panoramic views of the city. Taking the taxi is the best decision we could have made since it saves our energy for other walking.

After leaving the castle we start walking downhill trying to follow a walk in the Rick Steves book. The streets are winding and change names every block or so. Afte we get quite far downhill, we realize we are going the wrong way. After considerable discussion, looking at maps and using our phones, we figure out where we want to be which is back uphill. Worth it though because we had lunch at a place recommended by Rick Steves - Comida de Santiago in the Largo do Contador Mor - whose specialty is grilled sardines. The sardines make a perfect lunch. We work our way to Largo de São Miquel, the heart of the Alfama neighborhood. The labyrinthine streets are tangled and confusing all the better to confuse invaders. There are now interesting little shops and restaurants tucked into these old small spaces. Kathy buys a cork hat! This area was not renovated after the 1755 earthquake so remains largely as it has always been. However, the last decade has brought changes in its demographics going from mostly fishermen and their families to immigrants from Ukraine and Brazil. Interesting little shops and restaurants occupy these old spaces. We stop by the Cathedral Sè, a Romanesque church started in 1150 and surviving the 1755 earthquake. (This earthquake changed everything in Lisbon.) The church isn't much on the inside. We eventually end up back at our hotel.

A stop for gelato completes the afternoon. The weather has been perfect. We go back to our rooms for a rest and break before going to dinner. We eat at the most interesting restaurant! We never would have found it if it weren't for a Rick Steves recommendation. It's housed in an old, old building that looks like it's empty. The outside is peeling and covered with scaffolding. One wouldn't even notice the entrance if you weren't looking for it. The name is Casa do Alentejo Restaurante. It is Moorish inside and is a cultural, social center for people from the southern province of Alentejo. The second floor houses the restaurant which serves regional specialties. Kathy has a specialty of the region, fried pork with clams. The food is very reasonably priced.

All in all, I felt great today and it was a satisfying first day. Hope all the days are this good.